Perrymecium

Here’s a great recipe from a sushi despot down in LA. He’s a guy that kicks out customers for violating Japanese customs like asking for miso soup before entrees, pouring soy sauce over sushi, and ordering California rolls. His justification is that you would never go to a three-star French restaurant and ask for ketchup, so you shouldn’t trample on Japanese culture and its proud culinary history either. Asking a sushi chef who has decades of training for a roll with cheese in it is the American equivalent to showing up to Thanksgiving dinner with pizza. Someone in Japan would fight you for that faux pas.

Actually, his philosophy has given me a lot of motivation to learn to pack sushi in the correct manner. Here’s a brief list of ways that you know a sushi restaurant is low class and probably not Japanese:

-rolls are offered with mayonnaise or spicy sauce (to cover up the taste of bad fish)
-the restaurant lets you pour your own soy sauce (all the food is bad, sushi despots dole out soy sauce by the drop)
-you ask for extra rice (you should be eating fish, good chefs are at the docks at 5 AM examining purchases)
-the sushi does not have wasabi in it (the chef doesn’t know what he’s doing)
-the rice falls apart when you pick up the sushi (the chef is just a monkey who copies what sushi looks like but doesn’t know how to actually pack it)

Anyways, the recipe is magnificent. This recipe makes the fish perfectly cooked and the miso sauce is heavenly. This was one of the best dishes I’ve ever cooked.

Miso Sauce

Yield: about 1 cup

1/4 cup sake
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon S&B hot-mustard powder or other mustard powder
1 cup fine white miso paste, also known as shiro miso
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (not seasoned)
A drop of yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit) or lemon juice
A drop of toasted sesame oil

* Bring the sake to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil for 20 seconds to evaporate the alcohol. Set aside to let cool.
* Transfer about a tablespoon of the sake into a small bowl and mix in the mustard powder until dissolved; return to the pot. Add the miso, sugar, vinegar, yuzu or lemon juice, and sesame oil and whisk until smooth and well-combined.

Oven-Roasted Salmon With Miso Sauce

Serves 4

4 (6 ounce, 1-inch thick) skinless, boneless salmon (or other thick white fish such as halibut) fillets
6 to 8 tablespoons miso sauce

* Preheat oven to 400 F. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil.
* Pat fish dry. Generously slather fish all over with miso sauce. Arrange fish in a single layer, skin side down, on the prepared sheet pan. Roast until fish is just slightly undercooked in the center, 6 to 7 minutes.
* Preheat broiler and broil fish 4 inches from the heating source, until the sauce on the fish is lightly golden and fish is just opaque in the center, about another 2 minutes. Transfer fish to 4 plates and serve immediately.

We’re having a potluck to have a mini-birthday party for two of our friends, Mikey and Dana. My contribution is two finger foods, bacon wrapped chestnuts and bruschetta. Both are crowd favorites, although I’m trying a new recipe for the bruschetta. It’s too much work to dice tomatoes so I’m just going to try slicing it with the cheese grater today.

Bruschetta with tomato and garlic

Yield: 15 servings

4 large ripe tomatoes
2 large garlic cloves
8 tablespoons extra -virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Coarse sea salt
2 baguettes, sliced

* Cut tomatoes in half crosswise, and, using a cheese grater, grate the pulp, discarding the skins. On the fine side of the grater, grate the garlic into the tomatoes. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt.
* Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Coat both sides of sliced baguette with olive oil. Toast the bread until golden brown on both sides (about 5 minutes). Generously spoon the tomato-garlic mixture over the grilled bread. Serve on its own, or as a side dish with cheeses and cured meats.

Bacon Wrapped Water Chestnuts

2 lb. bacon, slices cut into 3 sections
3 cans drained water chestnuts
1 bottle barbecue sauce

*Wrap a piece of bacon around each water chestnut. Hold bacon together with a toothpick. Bake in a 325 degree oven for 45 minutes or until brown. Drain off grease.
*Dip each chestnut in barbecue sauce and cook for another 45 minutes.
*Serve warm (they won’t last long, don’t worry)

It’s time to plan out another Family Dinner. Since the last one cost me quite a lot, I’m going to have to make the next few dinners significantly smaller and cheaper than normal. It will be a relief to only cook for 4-5 people, because cooking for 8-10 people is really straining for a simple amateur like myself. I want to concentrate and really sharpen my cooking technique, making the dinners smaller but more exquisite.

Anyways, the tiny theme has a tiny bird in mind, the cornish game hen. It will be somewhat difficult because I’ve never cooked nor eaten a cornish game hen, but tasting “good” is really all that matters. At least I’m working off the success of my pot-roasted chicken, which was a huge success.

Pot-Roasted Cornish Game Hens With Porcini Mushroom Cream Sauce

Yields: 4 servings

1/2 cup olive oil
4 Cornish game hens, innards removed, wing tips trimmed and reserved, and trussed
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 or 3 thyme sprigs
3 cups dry white wine
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh porcini mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 1/2 inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

• Heat 1/3 cup of the oil in a French oven or other ovenproof casserole with a tight-fitting lid that is large enough to hold the hens with a little room between them over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Place two of the hens in the casserole and brown them on all sides, turning them with tongs but being careful to not tear the skin, about 8 minutes total. Transfer the browned hens to a large plate. Repeat with the other two hens.

• Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the casserole and add the onions, celery, garlic, thyme and reserved wing tips. Sauté the vegetables and wing tips for about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened and are beginning to color. Add the wine, increase heat to high, and reduce the liquid to 11/2 cups, about 15 minutes. Add the chicken stock and hens and cover the casserole.

• Place in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.

• Uncover the casserole dish and increase the oven temperature to 500 degrees. Roast for 15 minutes more, and then check the internal temperature of the hens in the thickest part of the leg with an instant-read thermometer; it should read 155-160 degrees.

• Transfer the hens to a cutting board or platter and let rest for 10 minutes. Strain the liquid in the casserole dish through a fine-mesh sieve into a saucepan. Skim off the fat and add the cream, reduce over high heat until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and about 11/2 cups of liquid remain, 10 to 12 minutes. Cover and set aside.

• While the sauce is reducing, prepare the mushrooms. Working in 2 batches if necessary, heat the remaining olive oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat and sauté the mushrooms until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, 3-4 minutes per batch.

• Add the mushrooms to the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Serve hens on a bed of wild rice, spoon the sauce and mushrooms over the hens and serve immediately.

Endive and Heirloom Pear Salad With Blue Cheese

Yield: 8 cups

The vinaigrette:
1 ½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon full-flavored honey, such as Acacia or wildflower
1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 ½ teaspoons whole grain mustard
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

The salad:
26 Red Flame or other seedless red grapes
1 Warren pear or other heirloom variety
1 medium head fennel
4 Belgian endive heads
5 ounces high-quality blue cheese, crumbled (about 1 ½ cups)

• For the vinaigrette: Whisk the vinegar, honey and mustards together in a medium bowl. Whisk in the olive oil slowly to create an emulsion and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. (Yields about 1/3 cup.)

• For the salad: Using a sharp paring knife, slice the grapes very thinly. Core the pear and then slice very thinly, preferably using a mandoline. Divide the pears, grapes and cheese between four chilled salad plates.

• Trim the fronds and stem end of the fennel bulb and quarter lengthwise. Remove the core. Slice fennel very thinly, preferably using a mandoline. Place fennel into a large mixing bowl.

• Separate the endive into individual leaves by cutting about ½ inch from the bottoms of the endive. Peel as many leaves off as possible and then repeat cutting the bottom to separate more leaves until all leaves are separated. Add endive to fennel. Add the vinaigrette and toss until salad is well coated.

• Place the dressed endive and fennel on top of each plate and serve.

Seared Scallops With Potato-Chive Mousseline

Yield: 6 scallops

For the potato-chive mousseline:
3/4 pound (about 2 medium) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons softened butter
3 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

For the scallops:
6 (U-10 or colossal) day boat scallops (21/2 to 3 ounces each); tough muscles removed
Freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon butter

• To prepare the mousseline: Put the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and add 2 teaspoons of kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer until soft when pierced with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes well, using a fine-mesh sieve. Set the sieve over the saucepan and smash the potatoes with a fork, then press them through the sieve back into the pot with the back of a wooden spoon or spatula.

• Stir in the butter and milk and reheat the potato mixture over low heat. Add the chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the potatoes, cover the saucepan, and keep in a warm place on the stove (or over a hot water bath) until ready to serve.

• To prepare the scallops: Pat the scallops dry and season with salt and pepper. Pour the oil into a heavy medium skillet and set over high heat until the oil is shimmering. Carefully add the scallops to the hot skillet and sauté until golden brown, about 6 minutes on the first side. Turn the scallops and sear the other side until just cooked through, another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the scallops and transfer, first seared side up, to a warm plate.

• Remove the skillet from the heat and immediately add the lemon juice and butter to the skillet. Scrape the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon to dissolve any brown bits. Pour the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl.

• To serve: Divide the potato puree between 6 small warm plates, placing the potatoes in a mound in the center of each plate (or use scallop shells if available). Place each scallop in the center of the puree and evenly distribute the caviar on top. Drizzle the lemon sauce around the potato puree.

Peanut-Caramel Sundae With Tapioca

Yield: 6 servings

For the peanut butter ice cream:
1 pint vanilla or peanut-butter ice cream, slightly softened
1/3 cup smooth peanut butter (omit if substituting a favorite store-bought peanut butter ice cream)

For the tapioca:
21/2 cups milk
1/3 cup quick-cooking small tapioca pearls
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the caramel sauce:
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup plus 11/2 tablespoon heavy cream
2 teaspoons sea salt

For the caramel Rice Krispies:
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 cup Rice Krispies or other crisped rice cereal

• To flavor the ice cream (if using vanilla ice cream): Transfer the vanilla ice cream to a medium mixing bowl, reserving the pint container. Drop spoonfuls of the peanut butter on top and then, working quickly, cut and fold the peanut butter into the ice cream with a spatula. Immediately return the ice cream to its container and freeze until firm enough to scoop.

• To prepare the tapioca: Pour 21/4 cups of the milk into a small saucepan and stir in the tapioca pearls. Set over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the tapioca, stirring constantly, until soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pudding to a bowl, stir in the vanilla, and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. When the tapioca has cooled, stir in the remaining 1/4 cup of milk to give the pudding a creamy consistency. Refrigerate.

• Prepare the caramel sauce: Pour the corn syrup and sugar into a heavy medium saucepan and stir. Set over medium heat and cook, without stirring, until the mixture turns a medium caramel color, about 8 minutes. (While the syrup is cooking, brush the sides of the pot down with water if you notice crystals forming.) Remove the pan from the heat and carefully add the butter, cream and salt. Avoid splashing yourself with the mixture as it will be very hot and will bubble up. Return the mixture to medium heat and bring to a boil, about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

• To prepare the caramel Rice Krispies: Butter a cookie sheet and set aside. Set a cup of ice-cold water by the stove. Pour 3 tablespoons of water into a small saucepan, stir in the sugar and set over medium-high heat until the mixture reaches the soft-ball stage, about 235 degrees to 240 degrees on a candy thermometer, after about 5 minutes. You can also test for the soft-ball stage by dropping a small spoonful of the syrup into the cup of cold water. The syrup should form into a soft pliable ball in the water.

• Add the cereal and, stirring constantly, continue cooking the mixture until the sugar has caramelized and the cereal is thoroughly coated, about 1 minute. Pour the mixture onto the cookie sheet and spread out with a spatula. Let cool completely. When ready to serve, carefully crumble any large chunks into small chunks. Set aside.

• To serve: Pour one tablespoon of the caramel sauce into each of 6 tall glasses. Divide the tapioca pudding between the glasses; top each with 2 small scoops of the peanut butter ice cream. Add another tablespoon of the caramel sauce and top with the crumbled, caramelized cereal. (Store leftover caramel sauce, covered, in the refrigerator.)

This was by far the toughest and longest Family Dinner that I’ve ever prepared. It was a lot of dishes and a lot of trouble, but I was determined to make it good because the mystery guest was Sophia, a small deity in taekwondo.

The cooking started two days early so I could start curing the fish and make the baklava. Baklava is the most troublesome dish I have ever cooked and it is truly a labor of love. The fillo dough is some of the hardest stuff to work with - it kept ripping and folding in on itself. Then there’s chopping 5.5 cups of walnuts, melting 3 sticks of butter, and spending 6 hours cooking a pastry. But in the end, it is totally worth it. The baklava was absolutely magnificent and definitely the most delicious dessert I’ve made so far.

The other troublesome part was the hummus. It’s not the actual preparation that’s a pain so much as getting all the ingredients in one place. I guess it’s hard because I’m not Arab and I had never bought half the supplies, but it hurt to see so many places where I could just buy giant jars of hummus. Your cooking lesson of the day is that baklava and hummus are not foods that are necessarily worth the effort of making it yourself compared to the convenience of simply buying it.

I aborted the rice noodle salad because it was not going to work. I bought wheat instead of rice vermicelli and realized too late that they are two totally different things. Another small disaster occurred with the spring rolls. I am not good at making dumplings as it is, and the spring rolls ended up broken. They still tasted good so it wasn’t a total wash.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures this time around. It’s kind of good, because it wasn’t my best effort. Other than the baklava, I would rate this Family Dinner as just pretty good. Which is a shame, because it was the costliest Family Dinner so far. I had to buy a lot of pretty unique foods and a food processor.

BTW, the mystery guests this week were brilliant. Sophia was one of the most thought-provoking and interesting guests we’ve had so far, as expected. Bobby and Mimi were also great guests.

Guests: Justin, Kelly, Aki
Mystery guests: Sophia, Bobby, Mimi
Materials cost: $400
Cooking time: 12 hours

This is my super-fusion meal, featuring dishes and contributions from as many major parts of the world as I could get. It has Indian and Latin American influence for the main dish, a Roman-Vietnamese spring roll, a Mediterranean-American hummus, an all-Asian salad, a Japanese-French appetizer, and a Middle Eastern (one of my favorites) dessert. Most of the cooking will be done before Sunday, so it shouldn’t be any more stressful than normal on the day of.

I know I’m supposed to use proper parallelism for good grammar, but screw that. Since will also be the first bona fide five course meal, I will put the dishes in order of service.

Gravlax Sashimi

Yields: 4 servings
1 pound center-cut wild salmon fillet, deboned
½ cup of sea or kosher salt
¼ cup light-brown sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
Grated zest of 2 limes
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh basil
1 cup white wine
1 tablespoon Basil Oil (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon Balsamic-Soy Reduction (recipe follows)
1/8 cup shaved pecorino romano cheese
20 Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds, cut in half (recipe follows)

• To cure the salmon: Lay plastic wrap in a 9 by 9-inch baking dish and cover with a thin layer of salt. Lay salmon, skin side down, on the layer of salt. Cover salmon with the rest of the salt. On top of salt, evenly spread a layer of brown sugar, lemon and lime zest, mint, and basil. Wrap tightly in several layers of plastic wrap, being careful not to leave any openings. Refrigerate for 48 hours. Remove, unwrap and wash the salmon under ice cold water to remove all the salt. Blot dry with paper towel and return it to the baking dish. Pour the wine over the fish, just to cover it, and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate until ready for use.

Basil Oil

1 cup packed basil leaves, stems removed
Coarse salt
1/3 cup of olive oil

• Bring a small pot of water and a large pinch of salt to a boil. Blanch basil for 15 seconds and immediately drain into a colander and run under cold water. Squeeze dry and transfer to a blender. Add oil and blend until smooth. Strain out basil through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the puree with a spoon to extract the most oil.

Balsamic-Soy Reduction

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce

• In a small pan, heat vinegar and soy to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.

Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds

1/2 cup whole almonds
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin

• Preheat the oven to 300° and roast the almonds on a baking sheet until golden, about 12 minutes. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the nuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool.

• To assemble: Slice salmon in ¼ inch slices and arrange in a fan on each plate. Drizzle over the basil oil and balsamic–soy reduction. Sprinkle the almonds and pecorino slices over the salmon and garnish with the greens, if desired.

Rice Noodle Salad with Panko-fried Shrimp

Yields: 4 servings
For the dressing:
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup sweet chile sauce
1/4 cup filtered or bottled water
1 small garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 Thai chile, seeded and chopped

For the sweet soy-glazed peanuts:
1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1/4 cup sake
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin

1 8-ounce package rice vermicelli noodles
1/2 pound mung bean sprouts
1 large cucumber, peeled and seeded and cut into 2-inch julienne
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup chopped scallions, green part only
12 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 large egg, well beaten
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
Vegetable or grapeseed oil

• Make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.

• To make the sweet soy-glazed peanuts: In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the peanuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool. When cool, cover with another piece of parchment and lightly crush with a rolling pin.

• In a large pot of boiling water, cook the noodles for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and cook for 1 minute more. Drain both through a colander and run under cold water until cool. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

• In a large bowl, toss the rice noodles, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and scallions with all but 1/4 cup of the dressing and divide among four serving bowls.

• Just before serving, fry the shrimp: Dip the shrimp first in the beaten egg and then coat with the breadcrumbs. In a medium saucepan, bring a 1/4 inch of oil to 325 degrees (or until a piece of shrimp sizzles upon contact). Immediately transfer shrimp to the hot oil and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes total. Top each salad portion with 3 fried shrimp, drizzle with the reserved dressing, and top with the crushed peanuts. Serve immediately.

Hazelnut Hummus

Yields: 4 to 6 servings
For the Beets:
½ pound baby or small beets (different colors if available), scrubbed, dried and trimmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Ras el Hanout spice blend

For the Vegetables:
Salt
½ cup (½-inch-thick) bias-cut celery (about 1 stalk)
1 cup cauliflower florets (different colors, if available)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped anchovies

For the Hummus:
¼ cup hazelnuts
1 cup cooked drained chickpeas
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch cayenne
Salt to taste

For the Garnish:
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped parsley

• For the beets: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the beets in a single layer on a large sheet of aluminum foil set on a baking sheet, drizzle and rub with oil, then wrap into a tightly sealed package. Roast beets until tender when pierced by the tip of a paring knife, 30 to 45 minutes. Cool, peel and cut into wedges. Toss with the vinegar and spice in a medium bowl. Set aside.

• For the vegetables: While beets are roasting, bring a medium pot of water to boil over high heat. Salt generously, then add the celery and cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer celery to a large bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Repeat cooking and shocking with the cauliflower, about 5 minutes to cook.

• Whisk the oil, lemon juice and anchovies in a wide, shallow bowl. Drain the cauliflower and celery, add to the vinaigrette, toss and set aside.

• For the hummus: While beets are roasting, place the hazelnuts in a baking pan. Toast in the oven, stirring once, until the skins crack, about 8 minutes. Remove nuts immediately from the pan and wrap in paper towels. Place the parcel in a resealable plastic bag; seal it to steam the nuts for 5 minutes. Roll it on a hard surface to loosen the skins. Sort, removing the nuts and discarding the skins.

• Place the hazelnuts, chickpeas, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, cayenne and salt in a food processor. Pulse to form a smooth paste, about 1 minute. Adjust salt to taste.

• Spread the hummus on a large platter. Drizzle with the pomegranate molasses. Drain beets, cauliflower and celery, and pile them on top. Garnish with the parsley. Serve immediately.

Roman Spring Roll

Yields: 4 servings
For the fish:
1 large (1/2 lb) baking potato, peeled and cut in 1-inch pieces
Coarse salt
8 large, round spring-roll wrappers (made of rice, not wheat)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
8 sundried tomatoes, finely chopped
1 lbs red mullet or tilapia fillets, skin removed, and cut into 8 equal pieces
1/2 cup finely chopped black olives
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
Minced spring herbs, like chervil and chives

For the sauce:
1 cup good-quality fish or seafood stock
1 tablespoon cornstarch

• In a medium saucepan, cover the potato with salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until the potato is very soft, about 15 minutes. Drain and reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Using a potato masher or ricer, mash the potato, using enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make a smooth, creamy puree.

• To make the fish packets: Hydrate the spring-roll wrappers in a bowl of hot water, one at a time, until soft and pliable, about 1 minute. Transfer to a paper towel and lay flat. Spread 1 tablespoon of the potato puree over the entire surface (this strengthens it) and sprinkle with parsley. Place 1 chopped sundried tomato in the center of the wrapper and top with a piece of fish. Sprinkle the fish with salt and top with 1 tablespoon of the chopped olives. Fold three sides of the wrapper up over the top of the fish, rolling it towards the fourth edge to tightly enclose it. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 8 fish packets.

• In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the packets until the wrappers are golden brown and crisp, and the fish is cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.

• To make the sauce: Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of cold water. In a medium saucepan, bring the fish stock to a boil and slowly add the cornstarch mixture, stirring until thickened, about 15 seconds. The consistency should be somewhere between liquid and gelatin. Season with salt.

• To serve: Spoon a few tablespoons of the warm sauce into the bottoms of 4 shallow serving bowls. Drizzle the sauce with olive oil and place two fish packets on top. Garnish with the spring herbs and serve.

Tandoori Skirt Steak

Yields: 4 servings
For marinade:
6 ounces plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 clove garlic, minced
1-inch piece ginger, peeled, minced
1/2 jalapeno pepper, minced
1 teaspoon, each: red chili powder, salt
1/2 teaspoon, each: cumin powder, coriander powder, garam masala

2 pounds skirt steak, fat trimmed, cut into 4 8-ounce pieces

• For the marinade, whisk together all the marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Add steaks, coating to cover. Marinate in the refrigerator 4 hours or overnight.

• Remove steak from refrigerator about 1 hour before ready to grill. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high for 10 minutes, and then reduce the heat to moderately high. Oil grill grates. Grill steaks, uncovered, about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare. Alternatively, broil steaks on high, with the oven rack about 4-5 inches from the heating element, about 3 minutes on each side.

Baklava

Yields: 40 servings
2 pounds phyllo dough (approx. 40 sheets)
6 ½ cups finely chopped walnuts
1 ½ cup sugar
1 ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon
¾ pound unsalted butter (melted)
2 ½ cups honey
1 tablespoon lemon juice

• Grease a 13×9 pan (bottom & sides) and set aside.

• Mix well the walnuts, sugar and cinnamon in a bowl and set aside.

• Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place a pan of water on the bottom rack.

Note: When working with phyllo be sure to work fast and keep the unused portion covered with plastic wrap at all times, as it tends to dry out pretty fast. Also, be sure to carefully follow the defrosting instructions on the phyllo - the sheets will stick together if you try to do a “speed defrost”.

• Set aside one full-size sheet of phyllo dough. Cover with plastic wrap.

• Cut remaining phyllo sheets to match the dimensions of pan.

• Carefully lay the full-size phyllo sheet into the greased pan, folding over the pan edges. With a pastry brush, liberally apply melted butter.

• Lay a cut sheet of phyllo into the bottom of the pan, and with a pastry brush liberally apply melted butter. Repeat 9 more times, so that you have the one full sheet and 10 smaller sheets as your bottom layer.

• Sprinkle 2 cups of the walnut mixture into the pan. Lay 6 more sheets of phyllo on top, making sure to liberally apply the melted butter between each sheet. Repeat this 3 more times, so that there are 4 separate layers of the walnut mixture. For the top layer place all remaining phyllo sheets, again making sure to liberally butter between each sheet. Using a sharp plastic spatula, carefully fold over the large sheet of phyllo that should still be extended over the edge back onto the top, so that the inside edges of the pan are visible. Carefully score the baklava into whatever shape you want, cutting about halfway down. A diamond pattern is traditional.

• Bake for 2 ½ to 3 hours at 300 degrees until brown.

• About 5 minutes before removing the baklava from the oven, combine the honey and lemon juice and heat over a medium heat until runny.

• Remove the baklava from the oven and very carefully drain the butter.

• Set the baklava on a cooling rack, and pour the honey mixture completely over it.

• Cover the baklava and let sit for at least 4 hours. Overnight or longer is best.

• When you are ready to cut the pieces, cut through the score marks with a sharp knife, and use a spatula to remove the pieces.

We had a very successful Family Dinner on Sunday, which made me especially happy because I wanted to make it a special thing. I already had most of the ingredients so it wasn’t too bad there either, and in fact this was one of the cheapest Family Dinners in cost.

As far as the cooking, let me say that the recipe calls for a LOT of wine. I actually thought it was too much and was worried that the taste would seep in. To make two sets of the recipe (dinner for 8), you need 3/4 of a bottle of wine. It looks like a tremendous amount when you put it in the pot but it turns out well. The chocolate mint swirl is also a much bigger recipe than it seems, and again I thought the dessert tasted way too sweet. I’m not sure if I’m adding too much sugar or what, but I need to tone it down a little bit. Only Kelly really enjoyed it, but she would drink melted chocolate out of the bowl if I offered it to her.

I also decided to bring back labeling who came to Family Dinner and how much it cost. The cost is the price of goods. It doesn’t account for leftover materials or materials that I already had (especially spices and herbs). It should balance out in the end.

Guests: Aki, Justin, Phong, Sandy, Kelly
Mystery Guest: Beverly
Materials cost: $55

I made this Family Dinner on Sunday. I intended to use a lot more seafood, but I figured it was a special day because Top Gear ran one of its best episodes ever. Also, I just realized that none of the places that sell really good fish is open on Sundays. I’m undecided if I just buy the fish on Saturday, or just shy away from recipes calling for fresh fish.

Anyways, it’s supposed to be a much healthier meal, with a little roast chicken and a couple vegetable-laden side dishes.

Brick Chicken with Rose, Peas, and Bacon

Yield: 4 servings
2½ to 3 pounds of bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, thighs, or drumsticks
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 slices smoky bacon, diced
1 cup inexpensive rosé wine
2 cups (8 ounces) fresh peas rinsed, or frozen peas thawed
2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram, sage, or thyme
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• Place the chicken skin-side up on a cutting board. (If using a butterflied chicken, press down firmly on the breasts with the palms of your hands to flatten the bird.) Pat dry with paper towels and rub with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and some salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for up to 45 minutes before cooking.

• Cook the bacon and remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat until the bacon is golden, 6 to 8 minutes.

• Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off all but 2 to 3 tablespoons of fat from the pan.

• Add the chicken to the pot, skin-side down. Place a foil-wrapped brick (or foil-wrapped heavy skillet or pot) on top of the chicken to weigh it down (if using chicken parts, you may need extra bricks). Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until the skin is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the brick and turn the chicken over, skin-side up. Add the wine and cover, leaving the lid slightly askew; bring to a boil. Cook the chicken through, about 15 minutes.

• Remove the chicken from the pot and, using clean shears or a sharp knife, cut it into 4 or 8 pieces. Return them to the pot, skin-side up, with the peas, bacon, herbs and butter. Cook over medium heat until the butter is melted; serve hot. For extra crispy skin, finish the chicken under a broiler for a couple of minutes before serving.

Salmon Miso Soup

Yields: 4 servings
1 waxy potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 shiitake mushroom, stemmed and cut into 1/4-inch slice
1 small onion, halved and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced
1/8 head Napa cabbage, bottom trimmed, cut into 1/2 inch slices (about 3 cups)
1/2-3/4 cup white miso
2 to 3 tablespoons sake
8 oz skinless, boneless salmon filet, rinsed and cut into bite sizes
1 scallion, thinly sliced on the bias

• Place the potatoes, mushrooms, onions, carrots, cabbage and miso into a large pot and add 6 cups of cold water. Add the sake and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the miso.

• Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatos and carrots are tender, 6 to 8 more minutes.

• Divide salmon between four bowls, ladle the hot soup and vegetables over the salmon (the heat of the soup cooks the salmon) and top with chopped scallions. Serve immediately.

Sea Greens Salad

Yields: 2 servings
5 cups mixed greens
1/2 cup grated carrots
1/2 cup dried wakame
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp orange juice
1 tbsp hoisin sauce

• Soak the wakame in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain, then place in a saucepan of boiling water. Cook one minute, then drain.

• Toss the greens and carrots. Plate and top with wakame.

• In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, orange juice, and hoisin sauce. Drizzle over the salads and serve.

Chocolate Mint Swirls

Yields: 4 servings
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
2/3 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tbsp confectioners’ sugar
1 tbsp creme de menthe
6 oz semisweet chocolate

• Place the cream in a large mixing bowl and whip until soft peaks form

• Fold in the mascarpone cheese and sugar, then place about one-third of the mixture in a smaller bowl.

• Stir the creme de menthe into the smaller bowl.

• Put the semisweet chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water until melted. Stir the melted chocolate into the larger bowl.

• Place alternate tablespoonfuls of the 2 mixtures in servings glasses, then swirl the mixture to give a decorative effect. Chill until ready to serve.

Tonight was almost everything I love about the concept of Family Dinner. I took a bold new approach and cooked both something I’ve never cooked before (steamed salmon) and made a twist on a classic dish (hamachi with avocade and grapefruit). The only thing missing was a bona fide mystery guest, but I enjoyed the company of the people who did come and it was clear that we’ve got a good family going.

Anyways, about the cooking. I didn’t have enough time to make chocolate cheesecake, so I switched it to chocolate pots de creme at the last minute and experimented with my own recipe. It turned out quite well so I’ll post that later.

The salmon didn’t turn out quite the way I wanted it to. I felt it was quite bland, a problem I’ve been having since I started cooking fish often. I don’t know if the solution is to season the fish more or if I’m somehow cooking it incorrectly. The steaming went quite well, however, and the texture of the fish was perfect.

This Sunday I’m cooking a special healthy Family Dinner, with a salmon theme. I expect it to be one of the better meals I’ve made for these occasions. It’s all about Japanese cooking with a very modern American twist. As usual, the dessert has nothing to do with the meal itself, it’s just following my love for chocolate and cheesecake.

Sake-Steamed Sockeye Salmon With Sake Butter

Yield: 4 servings

For the Fish:
1 stalk lemongrass, split lengthwise
2 cups sake
2 cups water
10 1/8-inch-thick, coin-shaped slices fresh unpeeled ginger, smashed with the side of a knife
2 star anise
Peel of 1 scrubbed orange
4 (6-ounce each) skinless sockeye-salmon fillets, preferably center-cut
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges

For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons peeled and julienned fresh ginger
1 tablespoon minced shallots
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, divided, cut into large dice
½ cup plus 1 teaspoon high-quality dry sake
1 tablespoon heavy cream
½ teaspoon fresh lime juice
Salt

• Set up a steamer. Use a large saucepan or a wok with a Chinese bamboo steamer set over it. (If using a metal steamer, lightly grease the steaming basket.)

• Bruise the lemongrass with the back of a knife to help release the aromatics. Cut lemongrass in half crosswise. Place the lemongrass, sake, water, ginger, star anise and orange peel in the bottom of the steamer. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

• Meanwhile, to make the sauce, in a small saucepan over medium heat, sweat the ginger and shallots in 1 tablespoon butter for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the high-quality sake, bring to a boil over medium-high heat and reduce by two-thirds, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Add the pieces of cold butter, bit by bit, whisking constantly. The butter will emulsify, creating a thick, creamy sauce. Whisk in the last 2 to 3 pieces of butter with the pan off the heat. (The sauce will be very thick but will loosen up once the remaining liquids are added.) When all the butter has been incorporated, whisk in the remaining sake and the lime juice. Season to taste with salt. Cover and leave in a warm spot but off the heat.

• Season both sides of the salmon fillets generously with salt and pepper. Lay the salmon fillets (skinned-side down) in the steamer basket. If the fillets include the thinner flaps by the belly area or the tail, fold the thin pieces under so the pieces are about the same thickness. Cover with the lid. Steam until the salmon is just cooked through, about 4 minutes.

• Place a fillet on each of 4 plates. Spoon some sake butter over each portion. Garnish with a lime wedge

Hamachi With Grapefruit and Avocado

Yield: 4 small servings

4 sections ruby red grapefruit, all traces of peel and pith removed
4 slices ripe avocado
4 slices very-fresh raw hamachi or kampachi fish
4 thin julienned pieces fresh ginger
Yuzu kosho (this chili paste with citrus zest is optional)
2 1/2 teaspoons ponzu sauce
1/2 teaspoon grapeseed oil
Shaved black truffle or truffle oil (optional)

• On each small serving plate, layer in order, from bottom to top, the grapefruit, avocado, fish, a piece of ginger and a dot of yuzu kosho, if using.

• Mix together the ponzu sauce and grapeseed oil and drizzle a few drops of the mixture over each serving, followed by the truffle, if using. Serve immediately.

Aromatic Steamed Rice

Yield: About 5 cups

2 cups Japanese short-grain rice
1 stalk lemongrass
2 cups cold water
3 1/8-inch-thick coins of unpeeled fresh ginger, smashed with the side of a knife
3 star anise
Zest from 1 scrubbed orange (preferably large, wide strips cut with a vegetable peeler)

• Place raw rice in a fine-mesh strainer. Rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain well.

• Smash the lemongrass stalk with the back of a knife; slice it thinly crosswise. Wrap it in a small piece of cheesecloth and tie in a bundle with kitchen twine.

• In a medium pot, combine the rice and water. Add the cheesecloth bundle to the pot, scatter the ginger, star anise, and zest over the top and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover the pot and simmer gently until all the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the lemongrass and other aromatics, fluff the rice with a fork and serve hot.

Sautéed Mushroom Salad

Yield: 4 servings

1 small head Romaine Lettuce, cut into bite size pieces, washed and dried well (about 6 cups)
8 cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
2 to 3 tablespoons Ponzu dressing (see recipe below)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 small portobello mushroom, cut into 1/8-inch slices
2 eringi mushrooms (available at Asian markets, also known as eryngii or king oyster mushroom)
4 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1 bunch enoki mushrooms, bottom trimmed and broken into small clumps
4 button mushrooms, stems trimmed, and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sake
1 1/2 teaspoons butter, softened
salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Place the romaine lettuce and tomatoes into a large bowl. Drizzle with the ponzu dressing, toss to coat and set aside.

• Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the mushrooms and garlic by handfuls, starting with the Portobello and eringi mushrooms. When the mushrooms wilt down slightly, add the shiitake and enoki mushrooms, tossing with tongs. Cook until the mushrooms are tender , about 5 minutes total.

• Add soy sauce, sake and butter. Toss to coat and season to taste with salt and pepper.

• To serve, divide the lettuce and tomatoes between 4 plates. Top with the mushrooms and serve immediately.

Chocolate Cheesecake

Cheesecake base:
1 1/3 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/2 stick butter
1 tablespoon cocoa

Cheesecake filling:
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped small
2 1/2 cups cream cheese
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1 tablespoon custard powder
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
2/3 cup sour cream
1/2 teaspoon cocoa, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water

Sauce:
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon dark corn syrup

Special equipment: 9-inch springform pan

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

• To make the base, process the graham crackers to make rough crumbs and then add the butter and cocoa. Process again until it makes damp, clumping crumbs and then tip them into the pan. Press the crumbs into the bottom of the pan to make an even base and put into the freezer while you make the filling.

• Put a kettle on to boil.

• Melt the chocolate either in a microwave or double boiler, and set aside to cool slightly.

• Beat the cream cheese to soften it, then add the sugar and custard power, beating again to combine. Beat in the whole eggs and then the yolks, and the sour cream. Finally add the cocoa dissolved in hot water and melted chocolate and mix to a smooth batter.

• Take the springform tin out of the freezer and line the outside of the tin with a good layer of cling wrap, and then another layer of strong foil over that. This will protect it from the water bath.

• Sit the springform tin in a roasting pan and pour in the cheesecake filling. Fill the roasting pan with just boiled water to come about half way up the cake tin and bake in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The top of the cheesecake should be set, but the underneath should still have a wobble to it.

• Peel away the foil and cling film wrapping and sit the cheesecake in its tin on a rack to cool. Put in the refrigerator once it is no longer hot, and leave to set, covered with plastic overnight. Let it lose its chill before unspringing the cheesecake to serve.

• To make the chocolate sauce: very gently melt the chopped chocolate, cream and syrup. When the chocolate has nearly melted, take off the heat and whisk it to a smooth sauce. Let it cool a little, and pour it over the chocolate cheesecake on its serving plate.

I had a special Family Dinner last night. It was my first time really preparing meat and the first time really making a meal themed to a person, so I wanted to do a good job.

The egg drop soup turned out really well. It’s a simple recipe but it worked quite nicely. I was very pleased with it and I might make more of it.

As far as the duck, the preparation and the cooking of the duck itself turned out quite well, much better than I expected. I didn’t have any dry sherry, so I substituted some sake and grape juice. It didn’t seem to make a big difference. A couple things that went wrong: I bought dumpling skins instead of Chinese pancakes and that turned out to be a mistake. The skins got way too crispy from frying and were pretty dry. It was suggested that next time I use flour tortillas, which is a good idea. I also botched the carving of the duck a little bit. I started off by stabbing the duck and a lot of the juice came out, but thankfully not that much because the meat was still moist and tasty.

Thanks to Irene for making dessert, an apple tort.  It was quite good and I was very impressed with the amount of work she put in.  Rack her.