Perrymecium

This is my super-fusion meal, featuring dishes and contributions from as many major parts of the world as I could get. It has Indian and Latin American influence for the main dish, a Roman-Vietnamese spring roll, a Mediterranean-American hummus, an all-Asian salad, a Japanese-French appetizer, and a Middle Eastern (one of my favorites) dessert. Most of the cooking will be done before Sunday, so it shouldn’t be any more stressful than normal on the day of.

I know I’m supposed to use proper parallelism for good grammar, but screw that. Since will also be the first bona fide five course meal, I will put the dishes in order of service.

Gravlax Sashimi

Yields: 4 servings
1 pound center-cut wild salmon fillet, deboned
½ cup of sea or kosher salt
¼ cup light-brown sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
Grated zest of 2 limes
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh basil
1 cup white wine
1 tablespoon Basil Oil (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon Balsamic-Soy Reduction (recipe follows)
1/8 cup shaved pecorino romano cheese
20 Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds, cut in half (recipe follows)

• To cure the salmon: Lay plastic wrap in a 9 by 9-inch baking dish and cover with a thin layer of salt. Lay salmon, skin side down, on the layer of salt. Cover salmon with the rest of the salt. On top of salt, evenly spread a layer of brown sugar, lemon and lime zest, mint, and basil. Wrap tightly in several layers of plastic wrap, being careful not to leave any openings. Refrigerate for 48 hours. Remove, unwrap and wash the salmon under ice cold water to remove all the salt. Blot dry with paper towel and return it to the baking dish. Pour the wine over the fish, just to cover it, and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate until ready for use.

Basil Oil

1 cup packed basil leaves, stems removed
Coarse salt
1/3 cup of olive oil

• Bring a small pot of water and a large pinch of salt to a boil. Blanch basil for 15 seconds and immediately drain into a colander and run under cold water. Squeeze dry and transfer to a blender. Add oil and blend until smooth. Strain out basil through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the puree with a spoon to extract the most oil.

Balsamic-Soy Reduction

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce

• In a small pan, heat vinegar and soy to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.

Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds

1/2 cup whole almonds
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin

• Preheat the oven to 300° and roast the almonds on a baking sheet until golden, about 12 minutes. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the nuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool.

• To assemble: Slice salmon in ¼ inch slices and arrange in a fan on each plate. Drizzle over the basil oil and balsamic–soy reduction. Sprinkle the almonds and pecorino slices over the salmon and garnish with the greens, if desired.

Rice Noodle Salad with Panko-fried Shrimp

Yields: 4 servings
For the dressing:
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup sweet chile sauce
1/4 cup filtered or bottled water
1 small garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 Thai chile, seeded and chopped

For the sweet soy-glazed peanuts:
1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1/4 cup sake
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin

1 8-ounce package rice vermicelli noodles
1/2 pound mung bean sprouts
1 large cucumber, peeled and seeded and cut into 2-inch julienne
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup chopped scallions, green part only
12 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 large egg, well beaten
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
Vegetable or grapeseed oil

• Make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.

• To make the sweet soy-glazed peanuts: In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the peanuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool. When cool, cover with another piece of parchment and lightly crush with a rolling pin.

• In a large pot of boiling water, cook the noodles for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and cook for 1 minute more. Drain both through a colander and run under cold water until cool. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

• In a large bowl, toss the rice noodles, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and scallions with all but 1/4 cup of the dressing and divide among four serving bowls.

• Just before serving, fry the shrimp: Dip the shrimp first in the beaten egg and then coat with the breadcrumbs. In a medium saucepan, bring a 1/4 inch of oil to 325 degrees (or until a piece of shrimp sizzles upon contact). Immediately transfer shrimp to the hot oil and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes total. Top each salad portion with 3 fried shrimp, drizzle with the reserved dressing, and top with the crushed peanuts. Serve immediately.

Hazelnut Hummus

Yields: 4 to 6 servings
For the Beets:
½ pound baby or small beets (different colors if available), scrubbed, dried and trimmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Ras el Hanout spice blend

For the Vegetables:
Salt
½ cup (½-inch-thick) bias-cut celery (about 1 stalk)
1 cup cauliflower florets (different colors, if available)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped anchovies

For the Hummus:
¼ cup hazelnuts
1 cup cooked drained chickpeas
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch cayenne
Salt to taste

For the Garnish:
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped parsley

• For the beets: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the beets in a single layer on a large sheet of aluminum foil set on a baking sheet, drizzle and rub with oil, then wrap into a tightly sealed package. Roast beets until tender when pierced by the tip of a paring knife, 30 to 45 minutes. Cool, peel and cut into wedges. Toss with the vinegar and spice in a medium bowl. Set aside.

• For the vegetables: While beets are roasting, bring a medium pot of water to boil over high heat. Salt generously, then add the celery and cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer celery to a large bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Repeat cooking and shocking with the cauliflower, about 5 minutes to cook.

• Whisk the oil, lemon juice and anchovies in a wide, shallow bowl. Drain the cauliflower and celery, add to the vinaigrette, toss and set aside.

• For the hummus: While beets are roasting, place the hazelnuts in a baking pan. Toast in the oven, stirring once, until the skins crack, about 8 minutes. Remove nuts immediately from the pan and wrap in paper towels. Place the parcel in a resealable plastic bag; seal it to steam the nuts for 5 minutes. Roll it on a hard surface to loosen the skins. Sort, removing the nuts and discarding the skins.

• Place the hazelnuts, chickpeas, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, cayenne and salt in a food processor. Pulse to form a smooth paste, about 1 minute. Adjust salt to taste.

• Spread the hummus on a large platter. Drizzle with the pomegranate molasses. Drain beets, cauliflower and celery, and pile them on top. Garnish with the parsley. Serve immediately.

Roman Spring Roll

Yields: 4 servings
For the fish:
1 large (1/2 lb) baking potato, peeled and cut in 1-inch pieces
Coarse salt
8 large, round spring-roll wrappers (made of rice, not wheat)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
8 sundried tomatoes, finely chopped
1 lbs red mullet or tilapia fillets, skin removed, and cut into 8 equal pieces
1/2 cup finely chopped black olives
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
Minced spring herbs, like chervil and chives

For the sauce:
1 cup good-quality fish or seafood stock
1 tablespoon cornstarch

• In a medium saucepan, cover the potato with salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until the potato is very soft, about 15 minutes. Drain and reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Using a potato masher or ricer, mash the potato, using enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make a smooth, creamy puree.

• To make the fish packets: Hydrate the spring-roll wrappers in a bowl of hot water, one at a time, until soft and pliable, about 1 minute. Transfer to a paper towel and lay flat. Spread 1 tablespoon of the potato puree over the entire surface (this strengthens it) and sprinkle with parsley. Place 1 chopped sundried tomato in the center of the wrapper and top with a piece of fish. Sprinkle the fish with salt and top with 1 tablespoon of the chopped olives. Fold three sides of the wrapper up over the top of the fish, rolling it towards the fourth edge to tightly enclose it. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 8 fish packets.

• In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the packets until the wrappers are golden brown and crisp, and the fish is cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.

• To make the sauce: Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of cold water. In a medium saucepan, bring the fish stock to a boil and slowly add the cornstarch mixture, stirring until thickened, about 15 seconds. The consistency should be somewhere between liquid and gelatin. Season with salt.

• To serve: Spoon a few tablespoons of the warm sauce into the bottoms of 4 shallow serving bowls. Drizzle the sauce with olive oil and place two fish packets on top. Garnish with the spring herbs and serve.

Tandoori Skirt Steak

Yields: 4 servings
For marinade:
6 ounces plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 clove garlic, minced
1-inch piece ginger, peeled, minced
1/2 jalapeno pepper, minced
1 teaspoon, each: red chili powder, salt
1/2 teaspoon, each: cumin powder, coriander powder, garam masala

2 pounds skirt steak, fat trimmed, cut into 4 8-ounce pieces

• For the marinade, whisk together all the marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Add steaks, coating to cover. Marinate in the refrigerator 4 hours or overnight.

• Remove steak from refrigerator about 1 hour before ready to grill. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high for 10 minutes, and then reduce the heat to moderately high. Oil grill grates. Grill steaks, uncovered, about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare. Alternatively, broil steaks on high, with the oven rack about 4-5 inches from the heating element, about 3 minutes on each side.

Baklava

Yields: 40 servings
2 pounds phyllo dough (approx. 40 sheets)
6 ½ cups finely chopped walnuts
1 ½ cup sugar
1 ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon
¾ pound unsalted butter (melted)
2 ½ cups honey
1 tablespoon lemon juice

• Grease a 13×9 pan (bottom & sides) and set aside.

• Mix well the walnuts, sugar and cinnamon in a bowl and set aside.

• Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place a pan of water on the bottom rack.

Note: When working with phyllo be sure to work fast and keep the unused portion covered with plastic wrap at all times, as it tends to dry out pretty fast. Also, be sure to carefully follow the defrosting instructions on the phyllo – the sheets will stick together if you try to do a “speed defrost”.

• Set aside one full-size sheet of phyllo dough. Cover with plastic wrap.

• Cut remaining phyllo sheets to match the dimensions of pan.

• Carefully lay the full-size phyllo sheet into the greased pan, folding over the pan edges. With a pastry brush, liberally apply melted butter.

• Lay a cut sheet of phyllo into the bottom of the pan, and with a pastry brush liberally apply melted butter. Repeat 9 more times, so that you have the one full sheet and 10 smaller sheets as your bottom layer.

• Sprinkle 2 cups of the walnut mixture into the pan. Lay 6 more sheets of phyllo on top, making sure to liberally apply the melted butter between each sheet. Repeat this 3 more times, so that there are 4 separate layers of the walnut mixture. For the top layer place all remaining phyllo sheets, again making sure to liberally butter between each sheet. Using a sharp plastic spatula, carefully fold over the large sheet of phyllo that should still be extended over the edge back onto the top, so that the inside edges of the pan are visible. Carefully score the baklava into whatever shape you want, cutting about halfway down. A diamond pattern is traditional.

• Bake for 2 ½ to 3 hours at 300 degrees until brown.

• About 5 minutes before removing the baklava from the oven, combine the honey and lemon juice and heat over a medium heat until runny.

• Remove the baklava from the oven and very carefully drain the butter.

• Set the baklava on a cooling rack, and pour the honey mixture completely over it.

• Cover the baklava and let sit for at least 4 hours. Overnight or longer is best.

• When you are ready to cut the pieces, cut through the score marks with a sharp knife, and use a spatula to remove the pieces.

I made this Family Dinner on Sunday. I intended to use a lot more seafood, but I figured it was a special day because Top Gear ran one of its best episodes ever. Also, I just realized that none of the places that sell really good fish is open on Sundays. I’m undecided if I just buy the fish on Saturday, or just shy away from recipes calling for fresh fish.

Anyways, it’s supposed to be a much healthier meal, with a little roast chicken and a couple vegetable-laden side dishes.

Brick Chicken with Rose, Peas, and Bacon

Yield: 4 servings
2½ to 3 pounds of bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, thighs, or drumsticks
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 slices smoky bacon, diced
1 cup inexpensive rosé wine
2 cups (8 ounces) fresh peas rinsed, or frozen peas thawed
2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram, sage, or thyme
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• Place the chicken skin-side up on a cutting board. (If using a butterflied chicken, press down firmly on the breasts with the palms of your hands to flatten the bird.) Pat dry with paper towels and rub with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and some salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for up to 45 minutes before cooking.

• Cook the bacon and remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat until the bacon is golden, 6 to 8 minutes.

• Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate. Pour off all but 2 to 3 tablespoons of fat from the pan.

• Add the chicken to the pot, skin-side down. Place a foil-wrapped brick (or foil-wrapped heavy skillet or pot) on top of the chicken to weigh it down (if using chicken parts, you may need extra bricks). Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until the skin is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the brick and turn the chicken over, skin-side up. Add the wine and cover, leaving the lid slightly askew; bring to a boil. Cook the chicken through, about 15 minutes.

• Remove the chicken from the pot and, using clean shears or a sharp knife, cut it into 4 or 8 pieces. Return them to the pot, skin-side up, with the peas, bacon, herbs and butter. Cook over medium heat until the butter is melted; serve hot. For extra crispy skin, finish the chicken under a broiler for a couple of minutes before serving.

Salmon Miso Soup

Yields: 4 servings
1 waxy potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 shiitake mushroom, stemmed and cut into 1/4-inch slice
1 small onion, halved and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced
1/8 head Napa cabbage, bottom trimmed, cut into 1/2 inch slices (about 3 cups)
1/2-3/4 cup white miso
2 to 3 tablespoons sake
8 oz skinless, boneless salmon filet, rinsed and cut into bite sizes
1 scallion, thinly sliced on the bias

• Place the potatoes, mushrooms, onions, carrots, cabbage and miso into a large pot and add 6 cups of cold water. Add the sake and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the miso.

• Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatos and carrots are tender, 6 to 8 more minutes.

• Divide salmon between four bowls, ladle the hot soup and vegetables over the salmon (the heat of the soup cooks the salmon) and top with chopped scallions. Serve immediately.

Sea Greens Salad

Yields: 2 servings
5 cups mixed greens
1/2 cup grated carrots
1/2 cup dried wakame
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp orange juice
1 tbsp hoisin sauce

• Soak the wakame in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain, then place in a saucepan of boiling water. Cook one minute, then drain.

• Toss the greens and carrots. Plate and top with wakame.

• In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, orange juice, and hoisin sauce. Drizzle over the salads and serve.

Chocolate Mint Swirls

Yields: 4 servings
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
2/3 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tbsp confectioners’ sugar
1 tbsp creme de menthe
6 oz semisweet chocolate

• Place the cream in a large mixing bowl and whip until soft peaks form

• Fold in the mascarpone cheese and sugar, then place about one-third of the mixture in a smaller bowl.

• Stir the creme de menthe into the smaller bowl.

• Put the semisweet chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water until melted. Stir the melted chocolate into the larger bowl.

• Place alternate tablespoonfuls of the 2 mixtures in servings glasses, then swirl the mixture to give a decorative effect. Chill until ready to serve.

This Sunday I’m cooking a special healthy Family Dinner, with a salmon theme. I expect it to be one of the better meals I’ve made for these occasions. It’s all about Japanese cooking with a very modern American twist. As usual, the dessert has nothing to do with the meal itself, it’s just following my love for chocolate and cheesecake.

Sake-Steamed Sockeye Salmon With Sake Butter

Yield: 4 servings

For the Fish:
1 stalk lemongrass, split lengthwise
2 cups sake
2 cups water
10 1/8-inch-thick, coin-shaped slices fresh unpeeled ginger, smashed with the side of a knife
2 star anise
Peel of 1 scrubbed orange
4 (6-ounce each) skinless sockeye-salmon fillets, preferably center-cut
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges

For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons peeled and julienned fresh ginger
1 tablespoon minced shallots
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, divided, cut into large dice
½ cup plus 1 teaspoon high-quality dry sake
1 tablespoon heavy cream
½ teaspoon fresh lime juice
Salt

• Set up a steamer. Use a large saucepan or a wok with a Chinese bamboo steamer set over it. (If using a metal steamer, lightly grease the steaming basket.)

• Bruise the lemongrass with the back of a knife to help release the aromatics. Cut lemongrass in half crosswise. Place the lemongrass, sake, water, ginger, star anise and orange peel in the bottom of the steamer. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

• Meanwhile, to make the sauce, in a small saucepan over medium heat, sweat the ginger and shallots in 1 tablespoon butter for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the high-quality sake, bring to a boil over medium-high heat and reduce by two-thirds, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Add the pieces of cold butter, bit by bit, whisking constantly. The butter will emulsify, creating a thick, creamy sauce. Whisk in the last 2 to 3 pieces of butter with the pan off the heat. (The sauce will be very thick but will loosen up once the remaining liquids are added.) When all the butter has been incorporated, whisk in the remaining sake and the lime juice. Season to taste with salt. Cover and leave in a warm spot but off the heat.

• Season both sides of the salmon fillets generously with salt and pepper. Lay the salmon fillets (skinned-side down) in the steamer basket. If the fillets include the thinner flaps by the belly area or the tail, fold the thin pieces under so the pieces are about the same thickness. Cover with the lid. Steam until the salmon is just cooked through, about 4 minutes.

• Place a fillet on each of 4 plates. Spoon some sake butter over each portion. Garnish with a lime wedge

Hamachi With Grapefruit and Avocado

Yield: 4 small servings

4 sections ruby red grapefruit, all traces of peel and pith removed
4 slices ripe avocado
4 slices very-fresh raw hamachi or kampachi fish
4 thin julienned pieces fresh ginger
Yuzu kosho (this chili paste with citrus zest is optional)
2 1/2 teaspoons ponzu sauce
1/2 teaspoon grapeseed oil
Shaved black truffle or truffle oil (optional)

• On each small serving plate, layer in order, from bottom to top, the grapefruit, avocado, fish, a piece of ginger and a dot of yuzu kosho, if using.

• Mix together the ponzu sauce and grapeseed oil and drizzle a few drops of the mixture over each serving, followed by the truffle, if using. Serve immediately.

Aromatic Steamed Rice

Yield: About 5 cups

2 cups Japanese short-grain rice
1 stalk lemongrass
2 cups cold water
3 1/8-inch-thick coins of unpeeled fresh ginger, smashed with the side of a knife
3 star anise
Zest from 1 scrubbed orange (preferably large, wide strips cut with a vegetable peeler)

• Place raw rice in a fine-mesh strainer. Rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain well.

• Smash the lemongrass stalk with the back of a knife; slice it thinly crosswise. Wrap it in a small piece of cheesecloth and tie in a bundle with kitchen twine.

• In a medium pot, combine the rice and water. Add the cheesecloth bundle to the pot, scatter the ginger, star anise, and zest over the top and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover the pot and simmer gently until all the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the lemongrass and other aromatics, fluff the rice with a fork and serve hot.

Sautéed Mushroom Salad

Yield: 4 servings

1 small head Romaine Lettuce, cut into bite size pieces, washed and dried well (about 6 cups)
8 cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
2 to 3 tablespoons Ponzu dressing (see recipe below)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 small portobello mushroom, cut into 1/8-inch slices
2 eringi mushrooms (available at Asian markets, also known as eryngii or king oyster mushroom)
4 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1 bunch enoki mushrooms, bottom trimmed and broken into small clumps
4 button mushrooms, stems trimmed, and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sake
1 1/2 teaspoons butter, softened
salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Place the romaine lettuce and tomatoes into a large bowl. Drizzle with the ponzu dressing, toss to coat and set aside.

• Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the mushrooms and garlic by handfuls, starting with the Portobello and eringi mushrooms. When the mushrooms wilt down slightly, add the shiitake and enoki mushrooms, tossing with tongs. Cook until the mushrooms are tender , about 5 minutes total.

• Add soy sauce, sake and butter. Toss to coat and season to taste with salt and pepper.

• To serve, divide the lettuce and tomatoes between 4 plates. Top with the mushrooms and serve immediately.

Chocolate Cheesecake

Cheesecake base:
1 1/3 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/2 stick butter
1 tablespoon cocoa

Cheesecake filling:
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped small
2 1/2 cups cream cheese
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1 tablespoon custard powder
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
2/3 cup sour cream
1/2 teaspoon cocoa, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water

Sauce:
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon dark corn syrup

Special equipment: 9-inch springform pan

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

• To make the base, process the graham crackers to make rough crumbs and then add the butter and cocoa. Process again until it makes damp, clumping crumbs and then tip them into the pan. Press the crumbs into the bottom of the pan to make an even base and put into the freezer while you make the filling.

• Put a kettle on to boil.

• Melt the chocolate either in a microwave or double boiler, and set aside to cool slightly.

• Beat the cream cheese to soften it, then add the sugar and custard power, beating again to combine. Beat in the whole eggs and then the yolks, and the sour cream. Finally add the cocoa dissolved in hot water and melted chocolate and mix to a smooth batter.

• Take the springform tin out of the freezer and line the outside of the tin with a good layer of cling wrap, and then another layer of strong foil over that. This will protect it from the water bath.

• Sit the springform tin in a roasting pan and pour in the cheesecake filling. Fill the roasting pan with just boiled water to come about half way up the cake tin and bake in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The top of the cheesecake should be set, but the underneath should still have a wobble to it.

• Peel away the foil and cling film wrapping and sit the cheesecake in its tin on a rack to cool. Put in the refrigerator once it is no longer hot, and leave to set, covered with plastic overnight. Let it lose its chill before unspringing the cheesecake to serve.

• To make the chocolate sauce: very gently melt the chopped chocolate, cream and syrup. When the chocolate has nearly melted, take off the heat and whisk it to a smooth sauce. Let it cool a little, and pour it over the chocolate cheesecake on its serving plate.

I’ve been a little too busy to update the blog, so I’m doing a lot of catching up today before my first final. I took a swing at climbing the peak of Chinese cooking, because Irene came back from her summer break in LA. It was a good move and turned out quite well.

Chinese Egg Drop Soup

Yields: 8 servings

8 c. chicken broth
3 tsp. salt
Dash of white pepper
2 med. green onion (with top), chopped
3 eggs, slightly beaten

• Heat chicken broth, salt and white pepper to boiling in 2 quart saucepan.
• Stir green onion into eggs.
• Pour egg mixture slowly into broth, stirring constantly with fork until egg forms shreds.

Peking Duck

1 (5 lb) duck
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon white vinegar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
10 scallion
1/2 cup hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Chinese pancakes

• Cut off duck wings at second joint, remove excess fat and skin, rinse and dry well.
• Insert chopstick thru neck opening and force along the wing bone under the skin until it protrudes slightly at the second joint.
• Push other end along other wing so that you end up with a duck that has its arms straight out like a crucifix.
• Tie a string on to the middle so you can hold the duck and hang it up.
• Bring 6 cups of water to boil in a wok.Add maltose or honey and stir to dissolve.
• Add sherry and vinegar.
• Make a slurry out of the cornstarch and add to wok.
• When liquid returns to a boil, dip the duck into liquid and spoon liquid over duck.
• Repeat until duck is thoroughly moistened.
• Repeat dunking once more.
• Hang duck by string in a cool airy place with a bowl underneath to catch drips.
• Leave for 4-6 hours until skin is dry and taught.
• Put roasting pan on lower oven rack and fill with 2-3 inches of water.
• Oil rack above pan.
• Preheat oven to 350.
• Remove chopstick and string.
• Put duck on oiled rack in center of oven breast side up.
• Cook 30 minutes.
• Turn duck breast down for 45 minutes.
• Turn breast up for 30 minutes or until skin is dark brown.
• While duck is cooking make scallion brushes.
• Trim roots,cut off most of green part, leaving a 3 inch piece.
• Make several 1 inch lengthwise slits in each end of scallion, put in ice water for 20 minutes, drain and refrigerate.
• Carve duck and separate meat and skin.
• Mix hoisin with sesame oil and 1 tbl water.
• To serve: use scallion brushes to wipe hoisin mixture on to pancakes, add duck skin and meat and scallion, fold one end over and roll up.

This Sunday I’m planning another Family Dinner, which will be special because Aki is coming back to town. Fortunately, she’s been in London so expectations won’t be terribly high. The theme for this week could also be “starter French cooking”, because the meals are slightly French but neither the materials nor the techniques are terribly difficult for an American amateur. Other than that, the feature entrees are the chicken of land and sea.

Chicken Poached in Buttermilk

Yields: 4 servings

1 quart buttermilk
4 large sprigs fresh thyme
4 (7 to 8 ounces each) boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, preferably pasture-raised
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Meyer lemon, or regular lemon, juiced
1 teaspoon crème fraîche
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon honey
1 head frisée lettuce, trimmed, washed and dried well

• Place the buttermilk and thyme in a casserole, preferably cast iron, that’s large enough to hold all of the chicken in a single flat layer without overlapping.

• Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper. Arrange the breasts so they are covered in the buttermilk. Heat the chicken slowly over medium heat until the buttermilk is shimmering and almost simmering. It should not be boiling, but too hot to stick your finger in (about 170 degrees). Cook slowly, adjusting the heat as necessary.

• Rotate the chicken and turn it over now and again so it cooks evenly until it is cooked through, about 15 minutes from the time it almost simmers. Chicken should be soft but have some resistance when pressed.

• Remove the breasts from the buttermilk and pat dry with a paper towel. Set aside to rest.

• Mix the lemon juice and crème fraiche in a small bowl until well combined. Add the oil and honey and mix vigorously.

• Put frisée in a medium bowl, drizzle liberally with the lemon vinaigrette mixture, about 2 to 3 tablespoons, and toss to coat well. Adjust dressing to taste.

• Slice chicken thinly and transfer each breast to a plate. Divide the salad evenly between the plates, arranging on top of each breast. Serve immediately.

Tuna L’Occidental

Yield: 10 servings

2 pounds yellowfin tuna, #1 grade or “sashimi-quality”
1 pound unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
10 shallots, peeled
3 cups canola oil
¼ pound mixed microgreens
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fleur de sel
Citrus marinade

Yield: 1 cup

1 orange
1 lemon
1 lime
½-inch ginger, peeled
1 whole shallot, peeled
1 garlic clove
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce
2 ounces white wine

• Combine coriander seeds and wine in a small saucepan and simmer until all of the wine has evaporated.

• Zest the citrus into a bowl, no pith.

• Peel and segment the citrus, adding all the juice and the segments to the zest.

• Thinly slice the ginger, shallots and garlic, and place in bowl with the citrus.

• Add the coriander seeds and any liquid, balsamic vinegar and soy sauce.

• Let everything marinate for about 24 hours. Strain and reserve the liquid.

Potato Puffs

Yield: 60 puffs

2 1/4 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
Salt
1 large egg, beaten
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons nonfat dry milk
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Vegetable oil, for frying